Alvord Desert Dreams
If you don’t live in Washington or Oregon (or maybe even if you do), you know the region via stereotypes. Rainy. Way too rainy. Amazing Cascade volcanoes, covered in snow and dominating the horizon. Two large cities with horrific traffic and great coffee. Or other-worldly beautiful ocean shorelines. I’ve been in the PNW since 1987, so I really look forward to any opportunity to bust the stereotypes and visit an area that is isolated, unique, and amazing – and very likely unknown to anyone in the PNW except those who stare at maps. Of course (not of course), I am referring to SE Oregon. And specifically the Alvord Desert and Steens Mountain.
Most of Eastern Oregon is considered high desert (3500 ft + above sea level). It is stark, empty, and filled with an amazing array of interesting and beautiful scenery. You’ll need to put down the smartphone – there is no signal. And that’s OK.
My destination was the Oregon Scenic Byway and the High Desert Discovery Route. Included is Steens Mountain, which has an elevation of 9,734 feet, and is adjacent to the Alvord Desert, at just over 5000 feet. So the Steens have a prominence of well over 4000 feet, meaning – awesome photography.
Since I was heading south, I was able to do the trip in May. Many of the high ridges and mountain peaks were still snow covered, so the scenery was great. Desert wildflowers were blooming, so this area was as alive looking as it gets. Yet still, there was snow attached to the higher elevations, and the road to the top of the Steens was still closed. That’s OK, I’ll return another time.
Short of a trip to Monument Valley in Arizona, this area is about as remote as anyone could need. As I drove up upon some ranchers moving cattle across a remote two-lane road – in no rush – I just shut off the engine, stared into the sun, and watched the cowboys work. 500 miles later, with cow poo still in my tires, I could think fondly of the simpler life in an area only one state away that seemed to operate within a time and pace that has long since passed. I wonder if they feel lucky?